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Tibet
This is one of the few countries to rival my new
country Canada for its beauty and clean air. You can see for absolutely
miles in clear pollution free air. I always wanted to go here from
a very young age, I finally managed it at the age of 45, and I must
say it was well worth waiting for .The people are so friendly (although
it is very difficult to make yourself understood, very few Tibetan
people speak English or French. We did have some success with the
younger Chinese people. There is bloody hundreds of them here, they
seem to be taking over most of the shops and we also saw the Chinese
undercover agents :-) at work in the temples, it was so obvious
they were watching every move the monks made. It is much easier
to get to Tibet now, when I went it took 2 weeks to get a visa from
Nepal and we had to go as a tour (to do this we got four of us who
wanted to go and called ourselves a tourist group) Hey! don't laugh
it worked! :-).
First tip Under NO!!
consideration do anything to any of the mangy looking dogs that
roam in packs all over Tibet. To harm or frighten one of these is
the worst thing you could do. All dogs are regarded as reincarnated
monks waiting to return again, so be warned.
One great tip before you go here, take
lots of photographs of the Dalai Lama, the Tibetan people can not
(are not allowed by the Chinese) get them. When you give them out
only give them to people on their own or you will soon be inundated,
believe me I know :-). Needless to say do not let the Chinese
see you doing this. Another thing when traveling anywhere in China
if you want to go to places where westerners are not allowed,
Always have your next destination in
mind, because if you get arrested they will ask where you came from
and promptly send you back, think about it, your next destination
or back where you came from?, free transport, sound good?
Another good tip, if you intend to
post any letters or postcards be warned, Tibetan stamps have no
glue on them, you have to use a bucket that is full of the most
foul looking and smelling stuff you ever saw, this is their glue,
never go posting your mail on a full stomach :-).
Always walk clockwise around the Temples,
or you will struggle in the narrower areas, everybody goes clockwise.
Flying in If you are flying in to Lhasa
be very careful not to have a heavy backpack, I tell you the shortage
of air (it is 4000 meters above sea level) is really something.
After you have been there for a day it is not to bad but the first
day I would recommend do very little more than take a short stroll.
Another thing for air travelers is if you are going late in the
season (I went in December) and you want to get back to Nepal, sometimes
the weather closes the airport for weeks, so alternate arrangements
have to be made (I called it a day and flew home for Xmas via Hong
Kong).
Trans. Mongolia or Trans. Siberia Railway,
If you intend to take either of these be sure to pack some extremely
warm clothing, these trains can get down to -50° at night. I
was planning to come back on the Trans. Mongolia but did not have
the clothing, hence the need for good sound info :-)
Food If you cannot read Chinese it
is slightly difficult here, I would advise you to do what we did.
Three of us would go out together and each of us would pick a different
meal by just point at anything on the menu, this way we were almost
certain of getting at least one thing we could eat :-) I
cannot remember for sure but I am pretty confident we always enjoyed
whatever we got. We had some fantastic foods (don't ask what it
was I have no clue) and I would have no hesitation in saying they
are dammed good cooks. :-)
Another Tip If you go walking outside
of Lhasa be very careful to remember your way back, there are absolutely
no street lights and English speaking people are more scarce than
Lhasa
I flew to Lhasa from Kathmandu but I have read and been told the
overland route via the Friendship road and bridge (everything seems
to be called friendship here) :-) is a really superb trip.(Try
to use the toilet on the plane before landing, The airport facilities
are a joke, a smelly one at that) There are some super temples here
including obviously the Dalai Lama's own residence the Potala
Palace (this was only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays so
phone first 22896 this is the number how you converse is your problem)
:-). This is a fantastic place be sure to allow at least
one day to see this there is a lot to see. Also in Lhasa is the
Jhokang Temple with it massive gold
leaf covered bells and Barkhor Bazaar,
(right outside the Jhokang) the market is really good as is the
local store called the Friendship Store. Just outside Lhasa is Drepung
Monastery this is a nice place, you can watch the monks having
their daily lessons and discussions here, I don't know why but they
always seem to clap when they speak. Also a place to see is Sera
Monastery (this was famous for its fighting monks) There
is a sky burial place just up the mountainside from Sera Monastery
but it is closed to tourists now, I would also recommend you do
not try to get around this, as both the Chinese and the Tibetans
do not take kindly to unwanted spectators at an occasion like this.
Places to stay
Two good cheap places to stay are the Snowlands and Banak Shol hotels.
These are real Tibetan places, good food, good fun and good company.
A place to avoid like the plague is the Holiday Inn Lhasa. It is
clean and the food is good but the brains behind the building of
it were not. It seems they bought the Architects plans from someone
in sunny California and built it exactly to plan in freezing Tibet,
even down to the marble floors. In all fairness they do give you
plenty of room heaters (if they have them to spare).If you want
luxury stay here, but buy a bloody big warm coat, believe me you
will need it...
Gyantse
The main sight in Gyantse is the Pango Chorten,
it is a massive temple,( I think it is called the Pagoda of 50,000
images) this is a place not to be missed. If you can get to the
roof there is a super view all over the town. I am sure it is closed
Sundays and only open to the public in the afternoons.(PS. your
pictures of the Dalai Lama will get you in here whereas people with
no pictures will not get in. You will see a lot of the damage the
Chinese did around this area, entire Monasteries were decimated.
It is a major stopover area for truck drivers so you would have
no problem hitchhiking around here. The scenery is out of this world
around here. If you are heading to Shigatse from here you will pass
numerous temples destroyed by the Chinese, some of them (Pali
Gompa used to house hundreds of monks now only about 30 remain,
this is being refurbished) are occupied by the Chinese army.
Shigatse
This is the traditional seat of the Panchen
Lama (who, last I heard was taken to Beijing) The Tashilhunpo
Monastery (used to house over 4000 monks now only 200 remain)
This is again a full day at least to see it all. It is a monastery
and town together. The things not to miss here are the 27 metres
high gold leafed Buddha, the great
hall which houses the funeral pagodas of former Panchen Lamas (one
of these is 11 metres high gold and silver plated and full of valuable
stones. The Tashilunpo is closed Sundays and only open 9-30 to 12-30
mornings. If you have you pictures with you you may get admitted
in the afternoons. Outside the walls is another sky burial place,
sometimes they admit tourists sometimes they don't, again the pictures
may gain entry for you. One place I thought was beautiful and a
must to see (and photograph) was the Yamdrok
Tso This is between Lhasa and Shigatse. It is known as the
Turquoise Lake is a super place to spend a few hours.
Here's a little story of what happened
to us on a dark night
When I go abroad I always leave my digs with some form of address.
In 1991 I went to Tibet and did a trip from Lhasa to Shigatse and
Gyantse. Whilst in Shigatse we decided to go to a local watering
hole so about 6-30 pm we set out and found a place that was full
of locals (why we needed locals I don't know as non of us spoke
Tibetan or Chinese!) it was only a café but the owner after some
basic hand signals realized we wanted beer so he sent one of his
customers out to get some, so far it was great, we had the beers,
and some more, and some more eventually we had to go back to our
digs so we went outside and WOW! was it dark (there was no electricity
in this part of town) We didn't have a clue as to which direction
to take (partly due to the utter blackness and I guess the strong
Chang didn't help much either)After walking around for maybe 1 1/2
hours I decided to play my trump card. I always leave my digs with
some form of address and in this instance I took a tablet of soap,
as usually it has the hotel name on it. We were showing this to
locals, nomads and Chinese in fact everyone who passed as by this
time the temperature was down to about minus 25, of course nobody
had a clue what we were after(as nobody spoke English or French).After
about 2 hours of this we were panicking something bad, then along
came two young girls on bicycles on seeing us obviously lost they
stopped, so I got the soap out and showed them where we wanted to
get to (I thought) they both burst out laughing and in pretty good
English asked what did we wanted, So we explained we wanted to get
back to our hotel which was on the soap tablet, more laughter, after
a few minutes they explained the packet had only the name of the
SOAP not the HOTEL on it. I don't know if you have noticed this
but 99.999% have the hotel name on, with us not knowing the first
thing about Chinese writing we didn't know this was the odd 0.0001%,
it always pays to check!!!
If you are planning a trip to Tibet and have any questions, or you
know any updated information contact me

I will reply ASAP.
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