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Sweden
Sweden is a large country whose sense of space is
perhaps its best feature. Away from the relatively densely populated
south, travelling without seeing another person is not uncommon. The
south and southwest of the country are flat holiday lands, and play
host to some historic ports, Gothenburg,
Helsingborg and Malmö.
Off the southeast coast, the Baltic islands of Öland
and Gotland are the country's most famous
resorts, and with good reason, supporting a lazy beach-life to match
that of the best southern European spots but without the hotel blocks
and crowds. Stockholm, the capital, is
of course the country's supreme attraction, a bundle of islands which
has fine museums and the country's most active culture and nightlife.
The two university towns, Uppsala and
Lund, are worth a visit too, going northwards,
Gävle, Gällivare
and Kiruna, all make justified demands
on your time. Going further north, this area, central and northern
Sweden, is the country of tourist brochures: great swathes of forest,
inexhaustible it consists of aprox 96,000 lakes and some of the best
wilderness hiking in Europe. Two train routes link it with the south.
The eastern run, close to the Bothnian coast, passes old wood-built
towns and planned new ones, and ferry ports for connections to Finland.
In the centre, the trains of the Inlandsbanan
strike off through lakelands and mountains, clearing reindeer off
the track as they go. Both routes meet in Sweden's far north, the
home of the Same, the oldest indigenous
Scandinavian people.
Hostels and Accomodation
There's an excellent network of youth hostels and campsites in Sweden.
Practically every Swedish town and village has a campsite, and camping
is a pleasant alternative to hostels during the summer, but if you
don't fancy shelling out for a pitch, Swedish law allows you to camp
rough without permission, as long as you don't make a nuisance of
yourself. The biggest choice lies with the country's huge chain of
youth hostels, operated by the Svenska Turistföreningen,
Drottninggatan 31-33, Stockholm (08/4632100). There are 280
hostels in the country, usually with single and double rooms too.
Virtually all, like most Scandinavian countries have well-equipped
self-catering kitchens and serve a buffet breakfast. Prices are low
(70kr-125kr); nonmembers pay an extra 35kr a night. The STF publish
a comprehensive handbook for 95kr, available from hostels, tourist
offices and large bookshops. Always ring ahead in the summer, and
bear in mind that hostels usually close between 10am and 5pm, with
curfews around midnight. Use our Hostel Booking form to book your hostel.
Places to See
Gothenberg is the place to go for a taste
of student radicalism. The scruffy cafés and restaurants around Haga
Nygatan and Linnégatan are not
only cheap, but have a caffein-fuelled political effervecence rare
in modern Europe.
Inlandsbanan Sweden is blessed with two
excellent train journies: the Inlandsbanan
that wends its way from Östersund through
picturesque Dalarna to Gällivare
in the Arctic Circle, and the train which
goes from Gällivare through the mountains to Narvik
in Norway - a truly breathtaking experience.
Lund is the most laid-back, eccentric
city of Sweden's south. Its twelfth-century cathedral drips with atmosphere
- legend has it that the stone figures that grip the pillars in the
crypt are the mythological Finn the Giant and his wife, frozen as
they tried to tear the building down.
Stockholm Gamla Stan , or old town, which
is made up of three islands, is home to the Royal
Palace, Stockholm Cathedral and
the Melditsmuseum, which has historical
reconstructions of the city in its medieval underground tunnels.
The ferry from Stockholm to Turku
in Finland is legendary in Europe. It is known as the "party boat",
it is full of Swedes and Finns hell bent on getting as drunk as possible,
duty free. Do not attempt this trip sober, or with your mother :-)
Visby, capital of the wild Baltic island
of Gotland, was one of medieval Europe's
most powerful cities. Now it throbs with young Swedes set to party
- but not far beyond its crumbling city walls are wonderful stretches
of empty beach and unexplored countryside.
Ystad, on the south coast, has to be
Sweden's prettiest town, with its seventeenth- and eighteenth-century
pastel buildings are set along narrow, cobbled streets. In fact, apart
from the busy international harbour, there are few modern eyesores.
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